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, a comparison table () or checklist, and 3 FAQs. Output raw HTML only without markdown." Need produce raw HTML only. Need likely include key takeaways summary first. Need semantic? SEO article. Need use h2, h3, table or checklist, 3 FAQs. Need no markdown. Need ensure valid HTML maybe article tags. Need authoritative comprehensive. Need practical actionable playbook style with checklists ul li. Topic: 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix rear wheel bearing. Need maybe discuss symptoms, diagnosis, replacement, parts, costs, tools, procedure, safety, torque specs? Need be accurate. 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix likely FWD? It has rear independent? Actually 2000-2006 Grand Prix is front-wheel drive? Let's recall: 2000-2006 Pontiac Grand Prix (G-body? No, GM E-body? It's FWD with front independent, rear independent? Wait 1997-2006 Grand Prix is front-wheel drive? I think 2000-2006 Grand Prix is front-wheel drive, with rear independent suspension? Actually many GM FWD cars have rear torsion beam? Let's verify from memory: 2000-2006 Grand Prix is front-wheel drive, 3.8L V6. Rear suspension: independent? It may be a rear independent suspension with lower control arms, upper control arms, struts? Or maybe torsion beam? Let's think: 2000-2006 Grand Prix and Oldsmobile Intrigue, Buick Century? They are FWD with rear independent? The 2000-2006 Grand Prix has a rear independent suspension? I recall replacing rear wheel bearings on Grand Prix: The rear hub/axle assembly? On FWD car, rear wheel bearing is often part of a bearing/hub assembly? For 2002 Grand Prix, rear wheel bearing may be a separate bearing in the rear axle/hub? Let's search memory: 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix rear wheel bearing replacement: It has rear wheel bearing that is a separate bearing pressed into the hub? Maybe the rear hub is not a press-in bearing assembly? There are "rear wheel bearing" on 2002 Grand Prix: often the bearing is in the rear axle housing? Let's reason. 2002 Grand Prix is front-wheel drive, so rear wheels are not driven? Actually FWD means front wheels driven, rear wheels are free. Rear suspension might be independent with trailing arms and struts. The rear wheel bearing may be a ball bearing in a hub assembly attached to the lower control arm? The wheel hub may be a pressed bearing in a hub, with a brake rotor? In many FWD GM cars, rear wheel bearing is a separate cartridge bearing pressed into the hub. Replacement may require pressing bearing, not just bolt-on hub assembly. Could be "rear wheel bearing" is not a hub bearing assembly; it's a bearing that supports the wheel hub and is pressed into the hub. Need provide practical playbook. Need avoid false specifics if uncertain. But user expects authoritative. We can phrase with caution: "On many 2002 Grand Prix models, the rear wheel bearing is a cartridge bearing pressed into the rear wheel hub; exact configuration can vary by market/production date, so verify with a VIN-specific parts diagram." But need actionable. Need include comparison table: maybe OEM vs aftermarket vs reman, or repair options: replace bearing only vs hub assembly vs axle assembly. Need table with columns, pros, cons, when to use. Or checklist table. Use table. Need 3 FAQs. Could be h2 FAQs with h3 questions? Need 3 FAQs. Use details? Raw HTML only. Could include

. Need start with key takeaways summary. Maybe

Key Takeaways

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. But user says start with key takeaways summary. Could be

? They didn't forbid h1. SEO article likely include h1. But output raw HTML only. Need maybe

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... Need ensure no markdown. Need comprehensive. Let's plan article:

2002 Pontiac Grand Prix Rear Wheel Bearing: Diagnosis, Replacement, and Cost Playbook

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Key Takeaways

• A noisy rear wheel bearing on a 2002 Grand Prix usually starts as a hum/roar that changes with speed and load; don't confuse it with a tire or brake issue.
• Because the car is front-wheel drive, the rear bearing is typically not a drive bearing; it supports the rear wheel hub and can be replaced as a bearing cartridge or hub assembly depending on the exact rear suspension setup.
• Inspect both rear bearings if one is bad—bearing wear often comes from shared load, rust, or a failed seal, and both sides may need attention.
• Typical labor is 1.5–3.5 hours per side for a professional; parts can range from budget to OEM-quality; total shop costs often fall in the $250–$700+ range per side depending on parts and labor.
• Do not drive long distances with a badly failed bearing: seizure, wheel lockup, or sudden loss of rear wheel support is possible.

Need maybe mention "rear wheel bearing" not "hub assembly"? Need table:

Quick Decision Table: Bearing vs Hub Assembly vs Axle/Housing

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Repair option	What it fixes	Best when	Typical cost impact	Watch out
Replace bearing cartridge only
Replace rear hub/axle assembly
Replace rear axle/housing or repair

Need checklists:

Step 1: Confirm the symptom before ordering parts

On-road checklist

• Listen for a low hum/roar that rises with vehicle speed, not engine RPM.
• Turn left/right gently at 30-40 mph: if noise increases in one direction, the opposite rear bearing may be loaded more (for rear bearings? Need be careful: For front wheel bearings, turning loads opposite bearing. For rear? Since rear not steered, load shift may not be as clear. But can still use? Maybe not. Better: "If the noise changes when turning, note direction and repeat; a rear bearing may load differently under weight transfer, but it's not as diagnostic as a front bearing." Or use tire test: jack rear wheel, spin, feel roughness. Need practical.

Jack-up inspection checklist

• Place car on level ground, chock front wheels, loosen lug nuts, lift rear, secure on jack stands.
• Remove rear tire/wheel, brake rotor if needed.
• Grasp wheel hub at 12 and 6 o'clock, rock; check for play, clicking, grinding.
• Spin hub by hand: feel for roughness, uneven drag, or a bearing that binds.
• Inspect hub face, seal, axle shaft, brake rotor runout, and wheel studs for rust/corrosion.

Step 2: Choose the right part

Parts checklist

• Confirm left/right orientation and VIN-specific part number.
• Check whether your car uses a pressed-in bearing cartridge, a bolt-on hub assembly, or a combined axle/hub component.
• Choose sealed bearing/hub if available; if pressing a bearing, use new seals and clean surfaces.
• Replace wheel studs or axle shaft seals if damaged; do not reuse a corroded or scored sealing surface.
• Buy brake hardware, rotor, or caliper bracket as needed if you're already disassembling.

Step 3: Replacement playbook

Tools and materials checklist

• Jack and jack stands, wheel chocks, lug wrench, torque wrench.
• Socket set, ratchet, breaker bar, hex keys, screwdrivers, pry bars.
• C-clamp or bearing press, soft jaws, driver tool, mallet, cleaning solvent, brake cleaner, anti-seize, thread locker, new seal if needed.
• Gloves, eye protection, shop towels.

Procedure checklist (general)

• Loosen lug nuts, lift rear, secure on stands, remove wheel.
• Remove brake caliper and rotor as needed; support caliper, don't hang by hose.
• Unbolt hub/axle retaining hardware; if the bearing is pressed in, remove hub from axle/suspension or press bearing out.
• Clean mating surfaces, inspect axle shaft, hub